| Biodynamic agriculture is based on the teachings of Rudolph Steiner (1863 – 1925) and specifically on his lectures given during the last year of his life. Demeter and other, grower-formed organizations provide guidelines for biodynamic production. However, the practice—adjusted by individual growers for their unique eco-system—is difficult to summarize because of all it encompasses as well as the individuality applied to each vineyard. For biodynamic wines, two related, prevalent ideas exist: life follows rhythms and the farm should be self-sustainable. Like organic farming, biodynamic agriculture uses no synthesized herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers. Unlike organic farming, though, biodynamic producers build upon the organic base with their adherence to life’s rhythms and a self-containing eco-system. According to wine maker and biodynamic advocate Nicolas Joly: “Organics permits nature to do its job; biodynamie permits it to do its job more.”
Rhythms
“Everything that grew on earth was an expression of what was happening in the cosmos.”
Earth and plant life have rhythms in respect to their position to the moon, sun and stars. The earth inhales and exhales. High and low tides are great examples of the earth’s rhythms. Another example is the cycle of sap within vines. During periods of an ascending moon, the earth breathes out, and growth is focused above the soil. Sap flows upward. During a descending moon, the earth inhales, and sap is drawn downward into the soil. Like grape vines, trees react the same way. For this reason, cutting down large trees such as a maple is best avoided during an ascending moon.
Biodynamic producers time vineyard and cellar work to enhance life’s rhythms. For example, producers will rack their wines—term for removing sediment, by moving the wine from one barrel to another, generally using gravity—during a descending moon or inhalation. The theory: the gravitational pull compacts the sediment, rendering an easier racking. Also, many producers believe the increase in gravitational pull holds the aromas in the wine being racked. Thus, the aromas do not escape from the wine!
Self-Sustainability
“Biodynamics addresses the health of the property as a whole.”
Biodynamic soil is soft, friable and loose. Microbial life in the soil and plant and animal life are all encouraged. Balance is created. If an insect is threatening the vineyards, then the producer will promote a predatory bug or animal or a natural remedy. Think of cedar blocks in a home closet discouraging moths.
To further this balance, animals kept on the land are very important. Horses and cows provide two good examples. First, horses are used to plow many vineyards. Advocates note horses allow them to be connected to their vineyards as they are not riding high above on a noisy tractor. Due to its lighter weight, a horse compacts the soil less than a tractor. Compacted soil lacks oxygen, and water does not penetrate it as easily (ie, run-off and erosion). As for cows, they naturally reduce overgrown vegetation. Also, their dung provides the primary source for compost.
On the flipside of a balanced vineyard, spraying chemicals kills more than the intended target. Nicolas Joly describes the ripple effect after two years of using chemicals in his vineyard and before turning biodynamic: “I gradually became aware of a change in the color of the soil; it was compressed and erosion had caused real gaps at the roots of the vines after heavy rains. The animals and insects had disappeared.”
Results
Do biodynamic wines taste better than conventionally made wines? These wines communicate the maker’s passion and their commitment to nature. Biodynamic wine is an expression of the place, soil and microclimate—components of the French-term “terroir.” If well made, then biodynamic wines are delicious, unique and hold a sense of place. Monty Waldin in Biodynamic Wines describes the uniqueness source as “farm individuality.”
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