Unlike conventional wines, organic wines use no synthetic herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers. Certification for the vineyard practices is governed by local bodies and can differ between countries. For wines sold in the United States, regardless of provenance, the wine must meet the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) rules and must be certified by a USDA recognized certifying body. Then, those wines can be labeled organic. Many producers practice organic winemaking in their home countries—including the US—but are not labeled organic for the US’ market. Important and often cited reasons include filing expenses, filing bureaucracy and use of sulfur.
For certification and labeling, the USDA has created four categories:
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“100% Organic” - The wine must contain 100% organically produced ingredients. The wine cannot contain added sulfites. However, naturally occurring sulfites less than 100 parts per million (ppm) are acceptable.
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“Organic” - 95% of ingredients must be organic; the other 5% can be non-organic as long as an organic form is not produced in commercial quantities. No sulfites may be added. However, naturally occurring sulfites less than 100 ppm are acceptable.
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“Made with Organic Ingredients” or “Made with Organic Grapes” - Must be at least 70% organic with the other 30% non-organic as long as an organic form is not produced in commercial quantities. This wine can contain sulfites, including added sulfites, as long as they amount to less than 100 ppm.
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“Some Organic Ingredients” - Organic ingredients can be less than 70% as long as the organic ingredient(s) and percentage are listed on the label.
As for the use of sulfur in wines, this topic is hotly debated. Sulfur acts as an antibacterial agent as well as an antioxidant. Most wine producers will add sulfur dioxide at time of bottling to slow oxidation of the wine before it reaches the consumer’s lips. Even if sulfur is not added at time of bottling, it is a natural by-product of fermentation. Therefore, it will always be present but in varying amounts. For wines with low levels of sulfur (ie, those not adding it during the wine-making process), proper storage becomes critical. These wines should be stored at less than 60º degrees Fahrenheit along the “cellar to consumer’s lips” chain.
Those advocating the use of sulfur are quick to explain that wine contains lower levels than certain food items. For example, dried fruit is generally accepted as being healthy; however, dried fruit has higher sulfur levels than wine. Per Harpers Wine & Spirit Weekly, the World Health Organization’s recommended daily allowance of sulfur is roughly equal to the contents of a half bottle of wine for a 150-pound person.
While presenting some points within the sulfur debate, Appellation’s support of organic wine—both certified and non-certified is inspired by two reasons: the high quality of organic fruit and the practice of sustainable farming.
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